What types of fabric weaves are there?

Once you have a suit in a basic and versatile weave (such as a twill, herringbone, birdseye, sharkskin or nailhead) we like our customer to expand their knowledge and wardrobes in terms of fabric weaves and their best uses.

Barathea

Barathea is a refined variation of the satin weave, traditionally favored for elegant eveningwear - notably the lapels of smoking jackets and formal tailcoats. It employs a modified satin structure in which the weft passes over fewer warp threads. This subtle adjustment retains a soft, smooth hand while exhibiting a delicate pebbled texture, offering both sophistication and understated depth.

Birdseye

Birdseye is a subtle yet distinctive weave characterized by an all-over pattern of tiny, raised dots—resembling the eye of a bird. The intended effect is for the material to appear solid from a distance, and the pattern only noticed when up close and personal. Birdseye suits are an ideal choice for those who appreciate the refined look of a solid suit but desire an extra touch of understated visual interest.

Bouclé

Bouclé refers to both a uniquely textured yarn and the fabric woven from it. The name comes from the French word ‘buckled’, a fitting description of its signature looped, curled threads, which create a nubby, dimensional surface. Typically woven from wool (or wool blends), bouclé often combines two or more contrasting colors—or varying shades of the same hue—for added depth. Bouclé shares a natural affinity with tweed: both celebrate organic imperfections, and bouclé yarn is occasionally woven into tweed fabrics for extra visual and tactile interest.

Corduroy

As the trend of the 70s, corduroy is reclaiming its place as a versatile, tactile favorite in modern menswear. Woven from cotton into thick, twisted ribs (or "wales"), this fabric strikes a perfect balance—durable yet soft, structured yet flexible. Winter’s secret weapon, corduroy delivers insulation without bulk, making it ideal for cold-weather tailoring with a touch of nostalgia. Whether in earthy tones for heritage appeal or bold colors for a modern twist, this fabric blends retro character with timeless utility.

Flannel

A cornerstone of cold-weather dressing, flannel is beloved for its unmatched warmth and lived-in comfort. Crafted from wool or cotton, its signature softness comes from a meticulous brushing process. Though rooted in tradition (think 19th-century workwear and Ivy League style), flannel’s understated versatility keeps it relevant. Whether layered under a tweed jacket or worn as relaxed loungewear, this fabric balances rugged charm with timeless elegance.

Fresco

Fresco is a tightly woven wool fabric using highly twisted yarns in a plain weave. The extreme twist creates a porous yet dense structure, offering exceptional breathability while remaining durable. It's open weave allows air circulation for coolness, though the texture feels distinctly crisp and firm to the touch. Ideal for warm-weather suiting, Fresco balances ventilation with resilience.

Gabardine

Developed by Thomas Burberry in 1879, gabardine revolutionized outerwear with its weather-resistant durability, inspired by medieval "gaberdina" cloaks. Woven in a tight twill structure, this fabric combines a smooth, refined surface with exceptional resilience. Make a huge plus for anyone who wants a suit that will continue to look smart throughout the day.

Herringbone

A timeless British textile featuring a distinctive V-shaped zigzag weave, reminiscent of a herring's skeleton. This bold pattern gives the cloth a richness and texture that adds depth for autumn or winter. Subtle, monochromatic versions of this weave are popular for suits, while bolder versions make for excellent sport coats.

Houndstooth

This iconic broken-check pattern features jagged, flaring twill lines that create its signature geometric punch. Known as pied-de-poule ("chicken foot") in French, it walks the line between heritage and high contrast. Classic but bold pattern makes it a timeless choice for those who appreciate graphic patterns with historical roots.

Ottoman

A weave with many names, you may know Ottoman as ‘grossgrain’ or ‘faile’. It produces a distinctive ribbed texture, heavy weight, and subdued yet elegant sheen. Ottoman fabric is well regarded for its smooth, lustrous feel and easy drape. The go-to choice for black-tie essentials like tuxedos, where its ribbed luster elevates formalwear beyond basic satins.

Panama

This is a basketweave in which multiple threads are interlaced to form a simple criss-cross pattern. The loose and open structure makes cotton Panama fabric perfect for lightweight suits and seasonal separates that prioritize ventilation without sacrificing structure.

Prince of Wales check

Steeped in royal history, the Prince of Wales check (also called Glencheck or Glenurquhart check) owes its name to the sartorially brilliant Duke of Windsor during his tenure as Prince of Wales. Defined by large squares interwoven with smaller, alternating patterns, this timeless design features either solid panels or intricate colored thread detailing, adding depth and character to the fabric. Renowned for its versatility, the pattern effortlessly elevates relaxed suiting and refined winter coats alike. Its true magic lies in the harmonious contrast of checks, allowing seamless coordination with other elements in your ensemble, making it a perennial favorite among discerning dressers.

Satin

Satin’s signature silky-smooth surface and rich luster come from its unique weave structure, where the weft thread floats over multiple warp yarns. This technique creates a glossy front with a distinctly textured back, offering both visual elegance and structural integrity.

Seersucker

Renowned for its distinctive textured appearance, seersucker is a lightweight cotton fabric woven with an intentional slack-tension technique, creating its signature "puckered" surface. This clever weave alternates between smooth and crinkled stripes (or checks), forming airy ridges that naturally lift the fabric away from the skin. While once reserved for Memorial Day to Labor Day, its relaxed elegance now extends to any sunny occasion.

Serge

A resilient and refined twill weave, serge is characterized by its pronounced diagonal ribs, created through a tight "two-up, two-down" weaving technique. Though similar to gabardine, serge boasts superior drape and flexibility, earning its name from the Greek word for silken—a nod to its smooth, fluid movement despite its rugged durability.

Sharkskin

Renowned for its refined yet resilient nature, sharkskin is a premium suiting fabric prized for its distinctive two-tone shimmer and exceptional practicality. A modern classic, sharkskin elevates suits, blazers, and trousers with understated dimension, ideal for those who value polished versatility. Fun Fact: Despite its name, sharkskin contains no animal products—the term refers solely to its visual resemblance to a shark’s sleek hide.

Tropical

A lightweight, breathable plain-weave fabric constructed exclusively with single-ply yarns, engineered for optimal comfort in tropical climates.

Tweed

The original name of the cloth was tweel, Scots for twill, the material being woven in a twilled rather than a plain pattern. A traditional story has a name that comes about almost by chance. Around 1831, a London merchant received a letter about some "tweels". The merchant misinterpreted the handwriting, understanding it to be a trade-name taken from the River Tweed that flows through the Scottish Borders textile area. The goods were subsequently advertised as Tweed, and the name has remained since. Tweed is very strong, rough, and tight-knit, yet flexible and stylish. Used for over a century, especially in suit jackets, waistcoats, and even trousers, tweed is one of the best and top-rated materials for winter wear.

Velvet

Nothing can match the luxurious look and feel of velvet. Because of its unusual softness and appearance as well as its high cost of production, velvet has often been associated with nobility. Warm, soft, sensuous to touch and known to drape well, velvet fabrics are specially manufactured for these distinctive properties. Velvet can be used for a variety of purposes, but one thing is sure: it stands out. Though this plush fabric is great for evening wear, velvet can just as easily be dressed down as it also pairs well with jeans and sneakers.

Worsted

Worsted is a high-quality type of wool yarn, born in the medieval village of Worstead, England. This refined wool set the standard for luxury textiles as early as the 12th century. Most wool requires the natural fibre to be spun. However, with Worsted, the wool is first combed in a process to remove any short and brittle fibres, leaving only the longer strands of fibre to undergo the spinning process. This creates a stronger, finer, and smoother-than-usual wool that can be worn at both formal and informal events.